Last month's issue featured an item entitled "The Lost Treasure of Jerusalem" by Bill Hutchings...
What an interesting article that was! Some years ago we read a book called The Blood and the Holy Grail which was about Bérenger Saunière. It was fascinating and when we next went down to the South of France we decided to take a detour and call in to see Rennes-le-Château.
It was a very hot day as we drove up the mountainous tiny road to the village which sat on top of the hill. We arrived at lunch time and all was deserted as it was obviously 'siesta' time. Even so, it seemed very strange not to see anyone at all. We parked and took in the breathtaking views which included a purple cloud on the horizon heading our way. We found the church but the doors were locked. Somewhat at a loss we went and sat on a bench and discussed what to do. There was a violent gust of wind and lightning flickered close at hand. The sky became dark. Tony was enthralling our four young children with the story of Saunière, adding a bit of descriptive licence here and there. The children were in awe particularly as the weather added its own backdrop to the tale. As the cloud again cut out the sun a figure of an old woman appeared at our elbow and asked if we wished to see the church. We nodded and she led us back to the door we had tried, unlocked it and then disappeared.
The Church at Rennes-le-Chateau dedicated to Mary Magdelene. Underneath the inscription reads@ "This place is terrible"
I suppose we were already affected by the atmosphere of the empty village, the storm which now crashed outside and the odd lady, but that church was the strangest place we have ever visited. As Bill described; there were demons at the door and the odd inscription 'this place is terrible'. Inside there were stations of the cross all around, but in each one there was something wrong. Also the statue of the virgin held twin babies. This prompted someone to guess that the secret Saunière had found was theological in origin and that Rome paid him to keep him quiet!
Cowed Demon, suppposedly Asmondeus, the demon tamed by King Solomon
By the time we left we were speaking in whispers and felt quite crushed. Driving away down the hull was like rolling out from under a great weight. As we reached the valley and looked back the sky was serenely blue again, what an extraordinary experience, thank you Bill for recalling it for us!
Jane (and Tony) Rice-Oxley
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page last updated 3 MARCH 2000