Feliz Ano Novo - de Lisboa

Following a joyous family Christmas, Barbara and Rod followed their custom of witnessing the onset of New Year in a different capital of Europe. This time Lisbon was selected. There is a myth that this great city of Portugal was founded by Ulysses (Ulyssi Bona) but more likely it was an important port on a trading route of the Phoenicians. In the earthquake of AD1755, which was also accompanied by a tsunami and an extensive fire, it was completely destroyed. After these disasters, the Marquis of Pombal totally remodelled it, mostly on geometrical lines.

At this exciting location, they took the sightseeing bus to orient themselves to the great monuments and activities available. Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, the Templars and many other groups - marauders, settlers or conquerors - passed this way and all left their stamp on the city. The language, Portuguese, is attractive to listen to, but the visitor can get by very well in English or French.

Among the wonderful sites and sights were:

• The Torre Belém. A fortress looking like a wedding cake, built in a highly decorated style called Manueline architecture in the River Tagus, as a defence to the city. Originally this tower was in the middle of the river, which changed its course after the earthquake.

Explorers we at ornate fortress Belém tower,
Tagus-girt, defender of the city, king Manuel’s mighty power.
• The Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoverers - Henry the Navigator, Batholomew Diaz, Vasco da Gama... adjacent to the Torre. This made a bold and magnificent statement of the achievements of the explorers from this land.

The intrepid discoverers of Portugal set out lands old and new to find,
And brought back riches, gold and jewels of rare and precious kind.

• Museu São Roque - a beautiful museum, recently refurbished, dedicated to St Roch (alternative spelled St Roque) and containing much gold and precious jewels - shrine to the saint, ecclesiastical vestments, communion materials and statues. A great deal of the ornamentation had been obtained from the conquered land of Brazil. The lovely church, dedicated to the saint, was next door.

At Barrio Alto in Church and Museum of St Roque we then our time did pass
And at the Basilica Church of All The Martyrs, went to Mass.

• The Alfama and Castelo São Jorge. A steep climb up the warren-like cobbled Moorish streets of the Alfama led to the Castle of St George which has, as often happened elsewhere, a bloody history. It is recorded that the Moors had it for 400 years, and when it was taken after a siege by the Knights Templar, they ran amok and behaved disgracefully to the peaceful inhabitants. A Christian scandal of great magnitude resulted, which was instrumental in securing the dissolution of the Order.

High at Alfama sat the Moorish Castle of St George.
Stormed by Martim Moriz, Templar, o’er the mighty gorge.

• Fado. B and R were very keen to hear genuine Fado music. This had been encountered before in Madeira, where they were a little disappointed. The restaurant was recommended as the authentic article and they were enthralled. There were four sessions during dinner, with both male and female artistes. They sang of love lost or unrequited, of the emptiness and sorrow of life, and the inevitability of death.

In driving rain they sought and Fado found in Sant’ Ana’s eating place,
Laments and bitter-sweetened music, rendered gypsy like with style and grace.

• Cristo Rei. The vast statue of Christ the King is on the southern side of the River Tagus. It is modelled on Cristo Redentor in Rio de Janiero. They took the ferry across, then a bus to view this mighty monument, which includes a Church at ground level, a Chapel and Shop above, and a viewing platform. The Church contains some marvellous modern religious paintings and stained glass. As they went up outside, the area was entirely in mist, so nothing whatever could be seen! Half an hour later, despite opposition from the lift attendant, they went up again and were rewarded with a clear panoramic view of the city.

They ‘lifted’ up to lofty base of monumental statue Cristo Rei,
But misty-shrouded, no viewing possible then ’cross Lisboa’s Bay.

The New Year was welcomed in at the gardens of Edward VII - our monarch who had come before the first world war to commemorate 400 years of alliance between England and Portugal - the Treaty still exists. There were fireworks and an illuminated wicker Christmas tree. Of course, B and R set forth to see Ano Novo in by dancing at the garden side, high and overlooking the entire city.

Rod Dawson